One of the hardest things to do with antique Indian jewelry, as with all antiques, is to establish fair value. Big things make a big difference, certainly (age, condition, provenance, overall quality) but little things can also make a big difference. What separates a more expensive piece from its less expensive cousin, when most of the factors are equivalent or nearly so? To answer this question in one small example, let's look at two bracelets in Turkey Mountain's current inventory.
On the left is B 3267, and on the right is B 3297. Both are Navajo silver bracelets, and both predate 1915. Condition on both is excellent, and many of the construction details are similar. B 3267 has an inside size of 5 3/4", while B 3297 has an inside size of 5 5/8". Yet B 3267 is priced at $4900, while B 3297 is at $3600. Why the difference?
The first two reasons are obvious. 3267 on the left is wider and larger scale, with more silver. It weighs 49 grams, while the other weighs 40 grams. Also, 3267 has a turquoise set in the middle, and bracelets with turquoise will normally sell for more than similar ones without. Those are the factors that anyone can see. Now, let's look at some factors that are not so obvious.
On the sides, B 3267 has repoussed and filed diamonds, while the diamonds on the sides of B 3297 are merely stamped. Repousse is a very difficult and technically demanding technique, so pieces that show repousse command a premium. However, B 3297 is not totally defenseless--it has repoussed terminals, and any kind of interesting terminal treatment, be it repousse or set stones, makes a piece quite desirable. So, both pieces show very fine and interesting repousse work, though in different places.
And now we see more repousse, this time in the center of the bracelet. Both bracelets have it--on B 3267 on the left, the repousse is beneath the turquoise, while there is no turquoise on the repousse on B 3297 on the right. However, if you look closely, you will notice that the inside of the repousse on both bracelets is smooth, while the outside shows either concentric diamonds (on the left) or fluting (on the right). This means that the artist in both cases filed the outside of the repousse to create texture and design. Since the filework was only done on the outside, the inside remains smooth. A very difficult and demanding way to decorate silver, and both bracelets have it.
The stampwork on B 3297 on the right is a bit more finely done than that of B 3267 on the left, including all those wonderfully executed arrows. This means that B 3297 is likely just a touch younger than B 3267--not much, maybe 5 or 10 years.
One last factor is provenance. B 3267 has been in two very important collections in its lifetime--the Laura Anderson and Phil Bacon collections. B 3297 is still waiting to be a part of an important collection, which it certainly deserves.
So, to conclude, B 3267 on the left is wider, heavier, older, and has turquoise and better provenance. B 3297 on the right is more finely done, and still shows great age and wear. The extra age on B 3267 is what mostly accounts for the price difference, but being narrower, B 3297 might be easier for everyday wear. Also, the terminal repousses on B 3297 are absolutely fantastic. In the end, the main deciding factor should be which bracelet appeals more to you. They are both fantastic pieces worthy of being in any collection.
For more information on these pieces, or any others in our inventory, email us or call 480-423-8777.
